The Ultimate Guide to Shopping Vintage Chainmail
To celebrate the launch of The Medievalist, our first print issue, we’re publishing a selection of stories from the magazine, plus a few newsletter-only additions, for all of you wenches to enjoy. Today, in a newsletter exclusive Viv Chen of The Molehill shares her very best tips for shopping vintage chainmail. The Medievalist is available for purchase online, now!
Last summer, I took a brief trip to Oaxaca and spent most of my time eating little pots of molé and shopping for silver jewelry. Perhaps it was the city’s flair for design and architecture that inspired me to branch out sartorially, but I found myself drawn to the look of chainmail accessories. I loved the way tiny loops of metal or steel could be interlaced into a fluid form.
So one afternoon, while waiting out a sudden balmy downpour, I curled up in the hotel bed for a good ‘ol eBay browsing session. After playing around with keywords (chainmail, mesh, stainless steel, medieval, 70s, 80s), I stumbled upon a listing that I knew was THE ONE. It was a slinky chainmail belt from designer Anthony Ferrara, with two graceful hands on either end, meant to be worn such that the hands would appear to “clasp” across your body. My pupils dilated. I scrolled down to “make an offer” and entered $125. An hour later, I got the email alert that my offer was accepted.
It arrived in the mail neatly rolled up like a fiddlehead. I unfurled it, smiling. It was even more mesmerizing in person — I’d never seen anything like it.
Styling this new piece was thrilling, and surprisingly…easy. There are two ways I wear it:
Across the chest like a prize sash. It’s giving Ren Faire pageant girl, no??
Around the hips over a skirt (tulle, ideally!)
I always get compliments on this belt when I wear it out.
As we inch towards summer, I think chainmail provides the perfect textural juxtaposition to the floaty, bare uniforms typical of hot weather. Wear it with silk boxing shirts, a sheer linen tunic, a cotton prairie skirt — the vintage chainmail does all the heavy lifting.
So, where to buy great vintage chainmail? Here are my expert tips for online sourcing.
Anthony Ferrara is an obvious search term. Like my clasping hands belt, his other vintage creations have that signature slinky chainmail mesh look. Whiting & Davis is another name to know. Founded in 1876, this American company specialized in producing metal mesh. By the 1920s, their mesh purses became the hottest accessory of glamorous women, like flappers and actresses. The good news is that there is plenty of chainmail you can buy online. I use Gem to get aggregated search results across secondhand platforms.
Anthony Ferrara Disco Chainmail Diamond Shape Earrings, $195: If I had pierced ears, I would buy these earrings.
Anthony Ferrara Hammered Stainless Steel Chainmail Necklace, $125: This would look beautiful as a choker necklace with a long silk dress.
Laura Vogel Chainmail Mesh Ball Bead Gold Brooch Pin, $16.95: Chainmail doesn’t have to be a big statement. Even a simple gold brooch adds shine and intrigue to an otherwise simple outfit.
Chainmail Coronet Circlet with Pearl Beads, $45.95: Obsessed with this. Wear it on the crown of your head (or as a necklace) with metallic eyeshadow.
Vintage Chainmail Coin Purse, $48: You know how all the fashion girls have been wearing those big silver pendant necklaces this year? This is the perfect size to store something sweet — like wildflower sprigs or a chunk of solid perfume — and carry it around your neck wherever you go.
1800's German Silver Metal Mesh Chainmail Clutch, $48: A chainmail purse is the perfect accessory if you’re experimenting with new textures. I think this would go hard with a striped mohair sweater, parachute skirt, and biker boots.
Finally, if your tastes skew more high fashion archival, I recommend familiarizing yourself with iconic chainmail runway moments. Like this Chanel 1999 pouch or this Paco Rabanne 1996 chainmail dress.
Viv Chen is a California-based fashion writer and vintage collector with work in Vogue, SSENSE, Marie Claire and more. She is also the founder of The Molehill, a leading style newsletter.
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